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Yarn basics (-)
The yarn is a continuous linear object made of various textile fibers. It is fine and soft, and has the basic properties required for textile processing and final product use. Yarns are mainly used for weaving woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, knitted fabrics and some non-woven fabrics. A small number of them are directly in the form of linear textiles, such as various sewing threads, plush threads, embroidery threads, cords and their threads.
Yarns are classified according to raw materials
1. Pure-spun yarns Pure-spun yarns are composed of the same fiber, such as pure cotton yarn, wool yarn, viscose fiber yarn, acrylic yarn, polyester yarn, nylon yarn, and the like.
2. Blended (mixed fiber) yarn blended or crosslinked yarn is a yarn composed of two or more kinds of fibers, such as polyester/cotton blended yarn, wool/polyester blended yarn, and wool/nitrile blended yarn. , polyester / sticky / nitrile blended yarn, silk / cotton yarn crepe and so on. A short fiber yarn obtained by mixing two or more kinds of short fibers is called a blended yarn; and a yarn composed of a combination of two or more kinds of filament yarns (such as twisting) is called a mixed yarn. Its blend is as follows:
Xa=Wa/W*100% where Xa is the content of a certain component fiber, Wa is the weight of the component fiber, and W is the weight of the blended yarn divided into seven series according to the physical properties and use characteristics of the yarn.
Series 1. Short fiber yarn Short fiber yarn is a yarn made by spinning various kinds of short fibers. Usually, the short fiber is first spun into a single yarn through a short fiber yarn forming system, and then several single yarns are combined and twisted to form a strand. If a plurality of strands are further combined and twisted, it becomes a reclamation. Strands and strands are used a lot on wool fabrics. Which of the single yarn, strand and retanning strands is used in the fabric depends on the design requirements and characteristics of the fabric.
Series 2, continuous filament yarn (filament or silk)
1. The silk filament yarn is made of silkworm cocoon as the raw material. The continuous filament obtained by the multi-twisted silk composite bundling process is called silk filament yarn, because it contains sericin, commonly known as raw silk, and silk. After a plurality of filaments are combined and twisted, a thread is formed, which is both gelatinized and degummed. Silk filament is an important raw material for the silk industry and is mainly used for the processing of various silk fabrics.
2. Chemical fiber filament yarn Chemical fiber filament yarn is bundled into yarn at the same time as fiber forming. It does not need to be a short fiber spinning process to concentrate the fiber into yarn, and then woven into the yarn. Compared with the various types of fabrics, the former has a high production efficiency, and although the filament yarn and the spun yarn made of the same kind of fiber have great differences in style.
The fiber-forming polymer forms a continuous filament through the spinneret. The number of fibers contained in the yarn depends on the number of orifices on the spinneret. Single-hole filament yarn is sprayed from the single-hole spinneret. (commonly known as glass filament), that is, single-hole silk, which can be used to weave fabrics with strong transparency. A filament yarn made of a porous spinneret is called a multifilament filament yarn, which is referred to as a multifilament yarn. After the twisted filament yarn is twisted, a twisted filament yarn is formed, and a plurality of twisted filament yarns are combined and twisted to form a strand. Since the strand is composed of filaments, it is also called Rehabilitation silk thread.
Series three, strand
A yarn formed by agglomerating two or more single yarns in a combined manner by twisting is referred to as a strand, referred to as a line. If necessary, a plurality of strands can also be aggregated into another yarn by combining and twisting. Such a yarn is called a retanning strand. The single yarn used to form the strands may be a spun yarn or a filament yarn; it may be the same fiber material, or may be a different fiber material, and may be the same as the spun yarn, or may be different. .
Series 4: A composite yarn composed of a combination of short fibers and filament yarns. The typical product is a core yarn, which is generally composed of two different yarns. The fiber composition, the coating may be formed by coating the filament fiber on the short fiber core, or the short fiber may be coated on the filament core, and the product obtained by the yarn forming method has various compositions. The characteristics of the fiber and the special appearance effect. For example, polyester/cotton core-spun yarn is used to weave the burnt-out fabric. When the cotton fiber wrapped in the outer side of the polyester filament yarn in the fabric is acid-decomposed, only the polyester core skeleton (polyester fiber) remains. It has stable performance in acid solution, so it can form a strong three-dimensional pattern on the surface of the fabric; for example, if the elastic filament is used as the inner core, the cotton fiber is coated on the outside and woven with such yarn. The fabric is both comfortable and elastic. With the improvement of the spinning technology, the combination of the short fiber and the filament fiber into a yarn is developed in the form of a combination of a filament yarn and a short fiber, which can simultaneously provide a filament yarn and a spun yarn. The style features are suitable for taking into account the respective advantages of different fibers and different aggregate forms.
Series 5, fancy yarn fancy yarn or color yarn application is the main purpose of decorative effect, it is usually the use of short fiber yarn or filament yarn for irregular twisting and joining, so that the yarn is not obtained Continuous, periodic patterns. Fancy yarns are generally composed of core wires, trim wires and consolidation wires, which can be produced by special processing equipment or special processes. Common fancy yarns are: (1) Jixian, (2) spiral flower line, (3) bamboo flower line, (4) terry flower line, (5) knot flower line, (6) chenille line , (7) diamond-shaped metal multi-strand line and so on. All kinds of fancy yarns can be formed into a variety of styles according to their different composition, appearance, feel and thickness of yarn, and are widely used in clothing, decorative fabrics and hand-knotted lines.
Series six, deformed yarn
Yarns made of ordinary chemical fibers lack bulkiness and covering properties, and it is difficult to achieve soft and elastic clothing requirements. However, chemical fibers, especially synthetic fibers, have the characteristics of adjustable structural control, and can be used in many parts. The new style of the product, the deformation of the yarn is. The processing principle is a yarn with high bulkiness and elasticity which is made by utilizing the plasticized deformation property of the synthetic fiber after being heated.
There are two forms of yarns formed, one is a spun yarn which is mainly for bulkiness, and is referred to as a bulky yarn. Its characteristics are bulky bulk, soft handfeel, and high compression elasticity, such as acrylic expanded spun yarn; the other is based on the pursuit of stretch elasticity of chemical fiber filament yarn, referred to as elastic yarn, in the role of small load external force It can have a large elongation deformation and deformation recovery ability. According to the elastic deformation ability of the elastic yarn, it is divided into high elastic yarn and low elastic silk. The high elastic yarn is mainly made of nylon filament, which has large elasticity and elasticity, and has good covering performance. It is suitable for making tights, sweaters and other pants; The elastic filament is mainly made of polyester filament, and a few are made of polypropylene, nylon and other composite fibers. It has a certain ability of stretching and deformation, but it is far lower than the high elastic yarn. It provides basically the appearance of ordinary filament yarn, but It is soft to the touch and can be used as a general clothing. In addition, there are some deformed yarns (such as air-textured yarns) made by other deformation processing methods, which are mostly used to imitate certain characteristics of natural fibers to compensate for the appearance, texture, durability, etc. of common synthetic fabrics. Insufficient aspects.
Series VII, other yarns simple summary introduction:
Some yarns used in industrial, agricultural, military and other fields to meet special needs, such as cord (for tire lining), sewing thread, rubber thread, glass wire, film flat wire, various types of wire rope, etc. Wait.
First, the calculation method of yarn yarn count 1. Unit (1), fixed length system:
A. Turks: The gage of a 1000 m length yarn at a given moisture regain rate is called a special number.
Formula: Ntex = (G/L) × 1000
Where: G is the weight of the yarn (grams), and L is the length of the yarn (meters)
B. Denier: The mass of 9000 meters of wire at the specified moisture regain is called the denier.
Formula: Nden=(G/L)×9000
Where: G is the weight of the wire (g), L is the length of the wire (m)
(2), fixed weight system:
A. Male count (public branch): The length of the meter in 1 gram of yarn (silk).
Formula: Nm=L/G
Where: 1 is the length of the yarn (wire) (meter), and G is the weight of the yarn (wire) (g)
B. British count (British): The number of 840 yards of a pound of yarn.
Formula: Ne=(L/G)×840
Where: L is the length (code) of the yarn (wire) and G is the weight (in pounds) of the yarn (wire).
2, unit conversion
A. Special number Ntex and imperial count Ne
Ne=C/ Ntex (C is a constant, the chemical fiber is 590.5, and the cotton fiber is 583. If it is a blended yarn, it can be calculated according to the mixing ratio, such as: T/JC (65/35) 45S yarn C=590.5*65% +583*35%=588, then calculate by formula)
B. Inch count Ne and metric count Nm
Purified fiber: Ne=0.5905Nm Pure cotton: Ne=0.583Nm
Blended yarn: such as T/JC (65/35) 45S Ne = (0.5905 * 65% + 0.583 * 35%) Nm
3, special Ntex and metric Nm
Ntex × Nm = 1000
4, special number Ntex and denier Nden
Nden=9*Ntex
Second, the twist and twist coefficient
1. Twist: The number of twists per unit length of the yarn. The Tex (number) twist Ttex of cotton yarn and cotton type chemical fiber yarn is expressed by the number of twists in the length of the yarn 10 cm; the inch count Te is the number of turns of 1 inch. The twist Tm of the worsted yarn and the chemical fiber filament is expressed by the number of twists per meter. The relationship between the above expressions is:
Ttex=3.937Te= Nm/10 Te=0.254 Ttex=0.0254Tm
There are two types of points: Zæ» and Sæ». After the twisting of the single yarn in the fiber or strand in the single yarn, the direction of the roundabout is from bottom to top, from right to left, called Sæ»; from bottom to top, from left to right, it is called Zæ».
The representation of the roundabout of the strands, the first letter indicates the direction of the single yarn, and the second letter indicates the direction of the strand. After two twisted strands, the first letter indicates the direction of the single yarn, the second letter indicates the initial direction, and the third letter indicates the reversal direction. For example, the single yarn is Zæ», the initial yarn For Sæ», the reclamation is the strand of Zæ», which is indicated by ZSZ.
2.æ» coefficient special coefficient α coefficient αtex=Ttex* Ntex1/2
Inch coefficient αe= Te/ Ne1/2
Metric æ» coefficient αm= Tm/ Nm1/2
The relationship between the special coefficient αΔ and the inch coefficient αe is:
Textex=Ttex* Ntex1/2= Te/2.54*10*5831/2 *Ne1/2 (583 is the coefficient of pure cotton variety. For blended and chemical fiber yarns, please refer to the change of the special number and the inch conversion constant C)
Third, the strength of the yarn and the single yarn breaking strength Single yarn strength: the force required to break a single yarn, called single yarn strength or single yarn strength, the unit is cattle (N), centimeter (CN).
Single yarn breaking strength: the ratio of single yarn strength P to yarn specificity Ntex is Km or cN/tex
4. The weight of the standard weight textile material at the specified moisture regain rate or the specified moisture content is called “standard weightâ€.
The relationship between the standard weight of the textile material and the weight of the actual moisture regain is:
Standard weight = weight see * (100 + official moisture regain) / (100 + actual moisture regain)
Calculation of the standard weight in production. The material is often dried first and calculated according to the dry weight. The formula is as follows:
Standard weight = material dry weight * (100 + official moisture regain) / 100